Hanging and Flat Scratchers: A Buying Guide for Small Homes
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Scratching is not a bad habit to be trained out of a cat. It sheds the worn outer layer of the claw, leaves scent from glands in the paws and lets the cat stretch its back and shoulders against resistance.
A cat will do it somewhere. The purpose of a scratcher is to make the right place more appealing than the arm of your sofa.
Vertical, Horizontal or Hanging
Cats have individual preferences. Some stretch upward against a post, others work flat on the floor, and a few do both depending on mood. Watching where your cat already scratches tells you which to buy.
Hanging scratchers solve a specific problem. They hook over a door or handle, which gives a vertical surface without using any floor space, and they can usually be laid flat instead if your cat turns out to prefer horizontal scratching.
Material Is the Part Cats Judge
Sisal is the usual recommendation because its coarse fibers give claws something to catch and shred predictably under repeated use. Jute is softer and gentler on claws, which some cats prefer and which suits kittens.
Looped carpet is the weakest choice, since a loop can snag a claw rather than release it. A hanging scratcher made from natural sisal and jute uses both fibers, and the built-in dangling toy gives a cat a reason to approach it in the first place.
Corrugated cardboard is cheap and popular with many cats, but it sheds pieces and needs replacing often.
Whatever the fiber, look at how it is attached. Loose ends and glued edges come away under claws, and a scratcher that starts shedding strands within a week was not built to be used hard.
Eco-Natural Sisal and Jute Hanging Carpet Cat Scratcher with Toy
$17.99
Sisal and jute together, with a dangling toy that gives a cat a reason to approach it. Check it stays put when pulled, because a scratcher that swings away teaches the cat to ignore it.
View product →Size, Height and Secure Mounting
A vertical surface has to be taller than the cat at full stretch, which is longer than most people expect. If a cat has to crouch, it will find something taller, and that something is usually furniture.
Hang it at a height your cat can reach comfortably with front paws raised. Check that it stays put when pulled, because a scratcher that swings away or falls down teaches the cat not to bother with it.
On the floor, the same scratcher needs to stay still. A mat that slides across tile as the cat pulls will be abandoned quickly, so use a non-slip backing or wedge it against something solid.
Where to Put It
Placement does most of the work. Cats scratch after waking, so a scratcher near a favorite sleeping spot gets used immediately. They also scratch at entrances and in rooms where the household spends time, which is where scent marking matters to them.
Hiding a scratcher in a spare room is the most common mistake. It needs to be where the cat actually lives, even if that is less tidy.
Most homes need more than one. A scratcher by the bed, another near the main sitting area and a third by the door covers the places cats actually want to mark.
Redirecting a Cat From the Furniture
Put the new scratcher directly beside the piece of furniture being damaged, not across the room. Reward the cat when it uses the right surface, with a treat or a few minutes of play.
Make the furniture less attractive at the same time, with double-sided tape or a cover over the target area. Once the cat has switched reliably, move the scratcher a short distance at a time if you want it somewhere else. Punishment does not work here, because the cat is not misbehaving.
Give it time. Switching a cat to a new surface usually takes a couple of weeks of consistent rewarding rather than a single afternoon.
Keep Claws Trimmed, and Replace in Time
Regular nail trims reduce the damage a cat can do and work alongside a scratcher rather than replacing it. Scratching removes the outer sheath but does not shorten the nail.
Most cats need several scratching options in a home, and a shredded scratcher still gets used, so replace it when the fibers are worn through rather than when it starts to look untidy.
Kittens should be given their own scratcher from the first week at home, because the surface a cat learns early is usually the one it prefers for life.
The short checklist
- Watch where your cat already scratches
- Sisal and jute beat looped carpet
- Taller than the cat at full stretch
- Place it beside the furniture being scratched
- Trim nails as well. and replace when worn through
Frequently asked questions
My cat ignores the scratcher. What now? It is usually placement rather than the scratcher. Put it next to whatever the cat is already scratching, and only move it gradually once the cat is using it.
Sisal or cardboard? Sisal lasts far longer and shreds predictably, which is what cats are after. Cardboard is cheap and many cats like it, but it sheds and needs replacing often.
Does trimming claws help? Yes, and it is the half most people skip. Blunt claws do less damage on the occasions the cat does go for the furniture.
The bottom line
A scratcher succeeds on material, height and location. Get those three right and the sofa stops being the most appealing surface in the room.